PLUS! - Saturday, June 22, 1991 -13 The continental approach! the&ijujii&houx reviewed Sept. 16, 1989 Maitre cfhotel Jim Sehn and chef Kim Pederson supply a classic dining experience for clientele ot WinstonTs Dining Room. photo by Brock Gable *7tteMeHu, Kinston’s ■S-assr cuisine. continental Formal and unob- ingASThW#: En9feh d. RQserva- by MARILYN STORIE_____________________ Where else can you get freshly spritzed flowers, fan-folded linen napkins and a Caesar salad made ta-bleside? Stepping out to dinner this week instead of lunch led Plus! magazine staff to the Inn of the North and Winston’s dining room, a restaurant which caters exclusively to evening diners. From the reproduction flamestitch chairs in the lounge — where diners can enjoy a leisurely drink before dinner — to the elegantly simple surrounds of dim lighting, whimsical English prints and subtle service in the dining room, Winston’s is the place to go when you’re hungering for cuisine, not just food. Winston’s has justly made the 1989 list of Where To Eat in Canada, a publication of noteworthy dining experiences authored by food critic Anne Hardy. "A lot of our clientele are businessmen,” said Thomas Paterson, maitre d’hote!. ’’They’re used to finely prepared food — and they expect it. But we have a goodly number of regular Princ8 George dientelle as well. A surprising amount of Prince George people are appreciative of fine dining.” Particularly admired by clientele is the chef’s rack of lamb, admirably tender. The scampi with herbed garlic buffer is another popular choice with Winston goers. When asked for his lamb recipe chef Kim Pedersen — like any chef worthy of his hat — makes the expected response: “It’s a secret.” Pedersen, who started out as a busboy and worked his way up through the ranks, was kind enough to hint that the secret is in the sauce and modest enough to blush when complimented on the tenderness of his popular dish. One appetizer recommended by the Edmonton-trained Kim who formerly delighted guests at the Coast Terrace Inn in Edmonton with his continental cuisine is scallops, bananas and figs. This unusual combination is served with white wine sauce and hollandaise. Unobtrusive and highly trained service is another star in Winston's cap. “It’s partly educating people on having wine and food together,” says Thomas in reference to the d’hote menu, a special dinner Winston’s began offering on a monthly basis recently. The menu suggests wines to go with the particular dishes. “If you have a nice dinner and a good wine, the food will taste better.” Currently in the process of changing the regular menu, Winston’s staff are finding that what goes over in Vancouver doesn't necessarily work here. One experimental dish on the monthly menu this summer, cold soups, met with a mixed response. “Some people seemed a bit dismayed by a chilled mango soup,” says Thomas. “It wasn’t something they had ever experienced.” Leisurely dining to a background of light classical music is a plus at Winston’s. “We allow a minimum of two hours per seating,” explains Thomas. “That’s generally enough time for a fine dining experience.” Food presentation has always been a strong point at the dining,room. “People eat with their eyes,” says Thomas. "We’re working very hard currently on improving our presentation of salads and soups.” In addition to a selective wine list to accommodate every stage of your meal, there are desserts are spectacular as cherries jubilee or as simple as in-season fruit. During a casual conversation about desserts, the chef suddenly stiffens. ”We have the REAL Death by Chocolate,” he announces. He moves purposefully toward the kitchen and returns shortly with a regal desert splattered with a darkly rich raspberry sauce. My palate isn’t well-trained enough to discern all the ingredients, but one spoonful of The Real Death hits me with a rapid succession of an orange, a liqueur and then a darkly rich raspberry flavor — all this in addition to the deepest chocolate flavor I have ever experienced. The chef literally throws this dessert together. “We drop it from a considerable height to get the splatter effect,” says Kim. "I was really annoyed one night when we got a lot of orders for them all at once. Everyone was in the kitchen dropping the sauce and the entire back wall was splattered with raspberry.” Talk about an off-the-wall dessert! Thomas Paterson has moved on to another Inn in the Coast chain. Jim Sehn has taken on the job of maitre d'hote! at Winston’s.